Ecclesiastical Embroidery by Heather Lewis: Review

Lucy writes: Participants in our Guild of St Clare classes at the Royal School of Needlework will be delighted to hear that our tutor, Heather Lewis, has put some of her wide knowledge of embroidering and making vestments into a book, recently published by The Crowood Press.

 Heather showed us some of the embroidery designs that she created for this book during our class in March 2023 - we've been looking forward to its appearance ever since. I was very pleased to find a copy of this beautiful publication under the Christmas tree, and as I hoped it certainly will be a very helpful resource for us in our work. 

The book proposes ten ecclesiastical embroidery designs, including a variety of crosses suitable for different liturgical seasons. The most ambitious of the designs is the Agnus Dei, but most could be tackled by a novice. 

Heather has a reputation at the Royal School of Needlework as a superb technician, and this is apparent in this book: very careful instructions are given for every stage, including suggestions on creating a suitable embroidery design and making practical decisions about working it. Heather knows her readers, and tailors her advice accordingly: for those needleworkers working on a design together, careful notes made in advance are essential, as well as ensuring adequate supplies of all materials before starting. Templates for her own embroidery designs are included at the back of the book. 

Some of her projects are decidedly contemporary in flavour; traditionalists will love her Floral Christogram, however, beautifully worked on Tudor Rose damask. 

Most useful to Guild of St Clare supporters will be the extremely detailed instructions on making up a stole and a burse at the back of the book, with copious photographs. 

There is a useful list of suppliers at the back of the book, although it's already out of date - FM Church Supplies went into administration two years ago. The weakness of the book is its treatment of the history of vestments, and its references to the liturgy. For an in-depth discussion of these, readers should look elsewhere. 

However, I was interested to learn that one author whom I'm already familiar with, Beryl Dean, was, with Jane Lemon, the founder and figurehead of the contemporary ecclesiastical school of embroidery of the second half of the twentieth century. The Modernist embroidery on contemporary vestments, such as the Cundy Cope and Mitre, worn by Justin Welby on many notable occasions (and familiar, I am sure, to many readers), is firmly in this new tradition.

I highly recommend Ecclesiastical Embroidery to anyone interested in learning to make vestments, and I'll be stocking it in the little Guild of St Clare shop too. Many congratulations and thanks to Heather for this magnificent effort.