Recovering Opus Anglicanum

 

Ancilla writes: When I first started getting into vestment embroidery Opus Anglicanum, translated to ‘English Work’, was very much on my radar. The V&A Exhibition ‘Opus Anglicanum: Masterpieces of English Medieval Embroidery’ was about the same time so there was much hype around this ancient needle work.

The Opus Anglicanum Exhibition at the V& A Museum, London

 A decade passed from this first interest when Guild Mistress, Lucy Shaw, kindly enrolled us onto the 2 Day RSN course ‘Introduction to Opus Anglicanum’ conducted by Jessica Ingram. I was very interested and excited.

Our sampler kit

This medieval embroidery has a unique style to it, think illuminated manuscripts like the St Albans Psalters, and Tutor Jessica had designed a sample for us with a Violet flower to this style.

Jessica's completed sampler

We began with the flower itself using silk threads to block shade the colours in using a split stitch. Then the really cool bit: underside couching. This way of using gold threads maximises all its glittering potential with minimal waste. I ended up wasting alot more than your medieval embroiderer would have but it really is a stunning way to use gold threads. There is a wonderful rhythm you can get into when sewing which I am sure would be very good for inserting prayers.  

Lucy's sampler

 

The sample also included the technique of Or Nue using silver threads and stem stitch in silk. I found the classes to be a really good taster and it left me wanting more.

RSN tutor Jessica Ingram

My hope is that we can reclaim this technique and style back for God, His Church and Britain. May Our Lady of Walsingham and St Clare help us in this endeavour!

The Virgin Mary embroidering, detail from a manuscript illumination from the Klosterneuburger Evangelienwerk